Rogue Waves in the Ocean
Transcription
Rogue Waves in the Ocean
Rogue Waves in the Ocean Extrait du IRPHE https://www.irphe.fr/Rogue-Waves-in-the-Ocean Christian Kharif Rogue Waves in the Ocean - Publications - Date de mise en ligne : lundi 8 septembre 2008 IRPHE Copyright © IRPHE Page 1/3 Rogue Waves in the Ocean Christian Kharif, Efim Pelinovsky et Alexey Slunyaev ont publié en novembre 2008 un nouvel ouvrage édité chez Springer. Rogue Waves in the Ocean - Observations, Theories and Modelling. Springer, 2008. Contents • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Preface Introduction Reference List List of Notations 1 Observation of Rogue Waves 1.1 Historical Notes and Modern Testimonies 1.2 Instrumental Registrations and Related Problems 1.3 Sea States Reference List List of Notations 2 Deterministic and Statistical Approaches for Studying Rogue Waves 2.1 Deterministic Equations 2.1.1 Mass and momentum conservation equations 2.1.2. Boundary conditions 2.1.3. Linearization : Equations for small amplitude waves 2.1.4. Dispersion relation 2.2. Statistical Description 2.2.1. The Rayleigh probability 2.2.2. Wave spectra 2.2.3. Kinetic models 2.3 Possible Physical Mechanisms of Rogue Wave Generation Reference List List of Notations 3 Quasi-Linear Wave Focusing 3.1. Geometrical Focusing of Water Waves 3.2. Dispersive Enhancement of Wave Trains 3.3. Wave Focusing Under the Action of Wind 3.4. Wave-Current Interaction as a Mechanism of Rogue Waves Reference List List of Notations 4 Rogue Waves in Waters of Infinite and Finite Depths 4.1 The Modulational Instability 4.1.1. Within the framework of the fully nonlinear equations 4.1.2. Within the framework of the Nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equation 4.2 Rogue Wave Phenomenon Within the Framework of the NLS Equation 4.2.1. General solution of the Cauchy problem 4.2.2. Nonlinear-dispersive formation of a rogue wave 4.2.3. Solitons on a background and unstable modes 4.3. Rogue Wave Simulations Within the Framework of the Fully Nonlinear Equations 4.3.1 A high-order spectral method Copyright © IRPHE Page 2/3 Rogue Waves in the Ocean • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 4.3.2. A boundary integral equation method 4.3.3. Numerical simulation of rogue waves due to modulational instability 4.3.4. Numerical simulation of rogue waves due to dispersive focusing in the presence of wind and current 4.3.5. Numerical simulation of rogue waves due to envelope-soliton collision 4.4 Statistical Approach for Rogue Waves 4.5 Laboratory Experiments of Dispersive Wave Trains With and Without Wind 4.6 Three-Dimensional Rogue Waves 4.7 In-Situ Rogue Waves 4.7.1. Nonlinear analysis of measured rogue wave time series 4.7.2. Statistics from registrations of natural rogue waves Reference List List of Notations List of Acronyms 5 Shallow-Water Rogue Waves 5.1. Nonlinear Models of Shallow-Water Waves 5.2. Nonlinear-Dispersive Focusing of Unidirectional Shallow-Water Wave Fields 5.3. Numerical Modeling of Irregular Wave Fields in Shallow Water (KdV Framework) 5.4. Three-Dimensional Rogue Waves in Shallow Water 5.5. Anomalous High Waves on a Beach Reference List List of Notations 7 Conclusion Reference List Appendix Discretisation of the Boundary Integral Equation for the Potential Index Copyright © IRPHE Page 3/3
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