The Latin Quarter Stroll

Transcription

Latin Quarter Stroll
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
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1. Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la
Bûcherie, start
2. Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-lePauvre
3. Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin
4. Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul
Painlevé
5. La Sorbonne
6. Panthéon, Place du Panthéon
7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.Geneviève
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8. Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève
9. Place Maubert
10. Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge
11. Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins
12. Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine
13. Rue Mouffetard
14. Les Arènes de Lutèce, 47, rue Monge
15. La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2 bis, Place du Puits de l'Ermite
16. Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d'histoire naturelle, La Grande Galerie
de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire
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17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.Bernard
18. Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.Bernard
19. La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle
Points of Interest Addresses
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Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la Bûcherie
Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-le-Pauvre
Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin
Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul Painlevé
La Sorbonne
Panthéon, Place du Panthéon
Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.-Geneviève
Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.Geneviève
Place Maubert
Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge
Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins
Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine
Rue Mouffetard
Les Arènes de Lutèce, 47, rue Monge
La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2, Place du Puits-de-l'Ermite
Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d’histoire naturelle, La
Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire
Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.Bernard
Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.-Bernard
La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle
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This tour can be done in two half-day
sessions, or the hearty traveler can take an
entire day to visit the sights of the Latin
Quarter.
Welcome to the 5th Arrondissement, also
known as the Latin Quarter because of the
large number of international students who
spoke Latin in the area starting as far back
as the mid-12th century.
Begin at 1. Shakespeare and Company, at
37, rue de la Bûcherie, just off the quai de
Montebello and rue St.-Jacques. The closest
metro stop is St.-Michel. Shakespeare and
Company is a unique bookstore and a
favorite for any literary lover. It was
founded by George Whitman, an American
resting in Paris after World War II and
brushing up on his French at the Sorbonne.
The books he accumulated while studying
warranted the opening of the store, where
many notable writers passed through to
read, write or take a bed during tough
times. The store still encourages new and
established scribes to share their work
during regularly scheduled readings.
After perusing the many books, exit the
store and turn right, into the adjacent park
at Square René Viviani. Spin around for a
fabulous view of Notre Dame, and then find
a leaning tree in the back right corner.
You’re now looking at what is believed to
be the oldest tree in Paris, planted in 1602.
Continue past the tree to the gate in the
right corner and enter 2. Eglise St.-Julien-lePauvre on your left. It’s said that parts of
the church date as far back as the 6th
century, but most of it is a mix of Roman
and Gothic influences from the 11th and
12th centuries. It became a Greek Orthodox
church in the late 1800s because there
were so many other Catholic churches
nearby, including the one you will be
visiting next.
Turn left out of the church and cross rue du
Petit Pont ahead, and you’ll be looking at
the side of 3. Eglise St.-Séverin. Note the
expressive gargoyles hanging off the side of
the building, and then walk around to the
front of the church and admire the flames
above, which lend credence to its
architectural style, Flamboyant Gothic.
Compare the 16th-century stained glass in
the back of the church with the newer 19thand 20th-century designs in the front. Exit
at the back left and turn right onto St.Jacques, right onto St.-Germain and left into
the Square de Cluny.
Walk to the far left and admire the gardens
and the medicinal plants scattered
throughout. Follow the signs around to the
right for the 4. Musée national du Moyen
Age, inside of which you’ll find medieval art,
stained glass, gothic sculpture and the
museum’s most prized possession, a
collection of 15th-century tapestries called
"The Lady and the Unicorn.”
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Exiting the museum, step into the small
garden across the street and you’ll be
looking at one of the buildings of the 5.
Sorbonne. It was founded in 1257, making
it one of the first universities in the world,
and now has 18 locations. Entrance to the
school is only possible with a student or
staff ID, but anyone can apply for
enrollment.
reach the museum on the second floor, but
you will be rewarded with something other
than your typical art and sculpture
collections. While most information is in
French, you can grab an English brochure to
read about the crimes and descriptions of
serial killers. You’ll also see an assortment
of murder weapons, such as a guillotine,
hammers, ice picks and pistols.
Turn left onto rue des Ecoles, and then right
onto rue St.-Jacques. Climb the hill and
make a right onto rue Soufflot, and you’ll be
staring at the 6. Panthéon. Honestly, it’s no
St. Peter’s, but you can tour the Panthéon
to see where some of the French greats
were buried, like Victor Hugo, Marie Curie
and Voltaire. Or go to the roof for expansive
views of Paris.
Outside on the corner, you’ll find the 9.
Place Maubert, and if you time your visit
for a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday
morning, you’ll be in for a gastronomical
treat, thanks to a farmer’s market selling
the best of the season. Grab some fresh
fruit, a strong, French cheese and some
charcuterie for a spontaneous outdoor
picnic. Fromagerie Laurent Dubois, at 47,
boulevard St.-Germain, has some of the
best cheese in Paris.
Exiting the building to the right, follow it
around to the back, and you’ll find the
impressive 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont,
the site of many pilgrimages to visit the
patron saint of the church, who is honored
for saving Paris from Attila the Hun.
Completed in 1626, this Gothic church took
over 125 years to create.
Turn right down the windy rue de la
Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and cross over
rue des Ecoles, and you’ll see an
institutional-looking building on your left,
which houses a police station as well as the
8. Musée de la prefecture de police. You
need to walk through the police station to
If it’s not a market day, there are also good
specialty shops at the Place Maubert for
sampling similar local fare. You can also
turn right on St.-Germain and right onto rue
Monge for 10. Eric Kayser. Purchase a
baguette, pastry or any other bread product
that catches your eye at this award-winning
boulangerie. With cheese and bread, you’ll
be all set for a picnic in the Jardin des
Plantes, which you’ll find later in this tour.
Just across the street on the corner of rue
Monge and rue des Bernardins is 11. Eglise
St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet. This church is
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the headquarters of the less-thantraditional Society of St.-Pius, which in the
1970s did not agree with many changes in
church laws and was to be expelled from
the location. It never left and still remains
today. It continues to believe in delivering
the mass in Latin with the altar and priest
facing away from the congregation.
Continue left up rue Monge, crossing rue
des Ecoles, and turn right on rue du
Cardinal Lemoine. Go up the hill to No. 74,
where you’ll see a plaque announcing the
residence of 12. Ernest Hemingway. This is
where Hemingway lived with his first wife
and wrote A Moveable Feast.
If your legs can take you no farther, end the
day’s tour ahead on 13. rue Mouffetard, a
foodie-filled street. Beware of the many
tourist spots, and head down the hill where
there are a few decent spots to eat.
For the diehards ready to see all of the 5th in
a day, retrace your steps back down to rue
Monge and continue until you see the
simple archway for the 14. Arènes de
Lutèce. Step inside and you’ll find an old
Roman arena that once held up to 15,000
spectators. Built around the end of the first
century AD, it was rediscovered under
debris in 1869. While you will no longer be
able to catch any gladiators doing battle,
you will find students playing sports or
French men playing boules. Walk all the way
through to see the gardens and fountain in
the back. Pass the playground, and exit the
gate to the left onto rue des Arènes. Turn
right on rue Linné, right on rue Lacépède
and left onto rue de Quatrefages.
Halfway down the block, you’ll see a
beautiful tiled archway for the 15. Grande
Mosquée de Paris. The mosque was
completed in 1926 as a sign of appreciation
to the Muslim community for helping the
French battle the Germans in World War I.
There is an area for worship and study, and
visitors can tour part of the facility and
enjoy the café’s mint tea and North African
food.
Retrace your steps back to rue Lacépède
and cross rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire and enter
the gates to the 16. Jardin des Plantes and
the Muséum national d'histoire naturelle.
Stay to the left and you’ll dead-end into the
Cabinet d’Histoire, or continue to the right
to the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, which
will entertain kids and adults alike with its
life-size animal displays. You’ll see whales,
monkeys and birds all hanging from the
ceiling, with elephants, dinosaurs and
giraffes surrounding them. Want something
more lifelike? Step into the garden’s
menagerie to interact with live animals, or
simply wander the beautiful grounds and
admire the flowers, trees and large
collection of medicinal plants.
Exit the opposite end of the gardens onto
the Place Valhubert, crossing the few
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streets directly in front of you until you
reach the quai St.-Bernard. Turn left on the
quai and take the lower path down to the
water to 17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la
sculpture en plein air). Wander the series
of serene walkways, and just before you
reach the bridge, turn left to return to
street level.
The large glass 18. Institut du Monde Arabe
will be in front of you. Cross the street and
enter the sun-sensitive building. You can
learn more about Islamic history,
archaeology and arts here. Enjoy the quality
bookshop on the ground floor, or go
straight to the roof for panoramic views of
Paris. If you want to enjoy a meal with your
view, make a reservation at the Lebanese
restaurant Le Zyriab, also on the roof.
If you’d prefer some French food after your
long tour of the 5th Arrondissement, make
a reservation at the high-end, one-starred
Michelin restaurant 19. La Tour d’Argent,
just down the street at 15, quai de la
Tournelle. It not only offers outstanding
food, but its dining room has spectacular
views of Notre Dame.
Alternately, a less expensive but very
romantic place to dine is Le Coupe-Chou, at
9–11, rue de Lanneau, near the Sorbonne.
There’s also the newer Restaurant Sola, at
12, rue de l'Hôtel Colbert, for sublime
French-Japanese fusion. All restos require
reservations.
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The Latin Quarter Stroll

Transcription

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