Pagina 1 di 9 1000fragrances 07.04.2009 http://1000fragrances

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1000fragrances
Pagina 1 di 9
CERCA NEL BLOG
CONTRASSEGNA BLOG
Blog successivo»
monday, april 06, 2009
Roger & Gallet copies Frédéric Malle ?
Crea blog | Entra
1000 fragrances
Octavian Sever
Coifan
Fragrance historian &
writer in Paris
View my complete
profile
Contact: coifanoctavian at
gmail.com
The new perfume from mass market brand Roger & Gallet is called Bois
d'orange (Orange wood). Very strange because there is also a Frédéric
Malle perfume called Bois d'orage (Storm wood) previously called
French Lover.
Is it copy or coincidence?
Photo for Bois d'orange.
publié par octavian coifan à l'adresse 6:40 am 1 commentaires liens
vers ce message blog
sunday, april 05, 2009
Black Afgano (Nasomatto)
Texts written by me, interviews
with me or articles about me were
published in the entire Romanian
fashion press (incl. Harper's
Bazaar, GQ, Elle, Tabu, The One,
Avantaje, FashionandBeauty, Dialog
Textil, etc), in almost all national
newspapers (incl. Jurnalul National,
Evenimentul Zilei, Cotidianul,
Romania Libera, Catavencu, etc), in
professional business press (incl.
Ziarul Financiar, Capital, Business
Magazin, Money Express, Wallstreet
Magazine etc), in the international
press (New York Times, Liberation,
Style.com, l'Officiel Paris, NZZFolio,
etc) and in many fragrance and
beauty webzines.
In the past 5 years I published more
than 300 de articles about
fashion/beauty/fragrance in
romanian and international press. My
3 books and my blog were quoted in
several professional journals or
recent books, starting with 2007.
I am member of Société Française
des Parfumeurs and member of
Romanian Society of Cosmetic
Chemists.
I studied architecture, pharmacy and
later perfumery at ISIPCA Versailles.
Since 2008 I teach design (master
degree) in a romanian School of
Architecture.
1000 fragrances - vol 1
http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/
07.04.2009
1000fragrances
Pagina 2 di 9
The new perfume was presented at Esxence - The Scent of
Excellence, this weekend in Milan. Created by Alessandro Gualtieri it is
a special vision of the Orient with "hypnotic flowers and psychedelic
woods" and it is supposed to express the best quality of hashis.
Another "drug like" perfume, deep and strong from Nasomatto.
Alessandro Gualtieri: “Ognuno in un profumo deve sentire quello che
sente realmente, non fermarsi alle piramidi olfattive e alle descrizioni”.
In a perfume everybody should smell what they really smell and forget
pyramids and descriptions. - quote in LuxgalleryIT.
The opening day at Esxence had a special event a round table with
1000 fragrances - vol 2
perfumers speaking about their art: Isabelle Doyen, Mark Buxton,
Stephane Humbert Lucas e Lorenzo Villoresi. On the website you can
hear on podcast this very interesting conversation (a mix between
italian, french and english).
fragrance the essential guide
( this photo is from Esxence)
publié par octavian coifan à l'adresse 12:51 pm 1 commentaires liens
Endangered fragrances
Copyright © 2005-2008 Octavian
Sever Coifan. All rights reserved.
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Octavian Coifan
Nowsmellthis
Auparfum
Graindemusc
Perfumeshrine
Vetivresse
ElisabethdeFeydeau
Thanks to IFRA 43 XXth century perfumery will become history. Several
Espritdeparfum
(great) perfumes still on the market will become ghosts. They will
Ambregris
disappear or will be so much changed that nothing of their soul will be
PerfumeGuide
kept. If they will still be for a while on the market, it will not take too
FirstNerve
much to be abandoned by the consumers. It happened decades ago
Fragrance Directory
when other great perfumes changed their quality and became drugstore
Chandler-NYTimes
products (Emeraude, Tabu, etc). I will try to make a list of fragrances
PerfumeMaking
that will not be the same anymore. Even if some of them are already
Peredepierre
reformulated what will happen next is an imminent death.
Aromatization
PoivreBleu
Joy (Jean Patou) extract - there is too much jasmine absolute for IFRA
Ismellthereforeiam
43. Joy, a treasure of French perfumery cannot be produced under the
07.04.2009
1000fragrances
Pagina 3 di 9
new rules. With the disappearance of JOY the House of Jean Patou,
perfumeprojects
already in bad hands (Procter & Gamble) will simply disappear in less
perfumeoflife
than 5 years.
RosaNegra
Chanel No 5 extract - the most famous perfume in the world is
boisdejasmin
already NOT the formula created by Ernest Beaux in 1921. But now, the
biblioparfum
amount of jasmine absolute and oakmoss from the modern extract
tauerperfumes
formula (plus other 2 molecules) will represent the end of Chanel No 5
Perfume-Smellin'Things
legend.
scentzilla
Guerlain - Forget Mitsouko. With the new restriction on oakmoss, this
basenotes
perfume cannot be produced. Also, there will be no more classic Jacques
perfumecritic
Guerlain to be revived by the house. There is none of pre WWII
aromascope
formulas that can exist with both IFRA 43 and LVMH rules. From musks
madebyblog
to floral absolutes and oak moss, and even the humble verbena water,
osmoz
there will be no relation between what was Guerlain and what it can be.
okadi
Only the names and the general fragrance idea can be sold to the
ayalasmellyblog
public. Problematic perfumes are Après l'ondée extract, Nahéma
scentedsalamander
(the rose ketones), Vega & Liu, Vol de Nuit (for the chypre note) etc.
parfyym
Nina Ricci - L'Air du Temps extract - already a reformulation this will
flacon007
disappear because the main accord is toxic according to IFRA. The
parfumanechka
balance between eugenol-isoeugenol-salicylate and hidroxycitronellal is
Brocard
the theme of the perfume. You alter it, you kill everything.
Roure
Caron - This house was already affected by IFRA but with IFRA 43
leschristophs
Caron cannot survive. IFRA 43 is the death sentence for Caron.
palomka
Send Poivre to Bruxelles, it will kill all the bureaucracy. I do not know
GoodScents
any classic Caron, with their huge spicy notes and strong natural rose jasmine absolutes, that could be sold as an extract. In 2010 nobody will
blog archive
be able to produce a Caron extract with the given data about
▼ 2009 (105)
eugenol/isoeugenol/oakmoss/jasmine absolute. The disappearance of
Caron (already with a bad management/marketing) is a certitude now.
▼ April (6)
Rochas has been relaunched recently but it will be a failure under
Roger & Gallet copies Frédéric
Malle ?
current regulation. Femme, their most famous perfume cannot be
Black Afgano (Nasomatto)
produced. Oak moss problem. A similar case is Madame Rochas,
Endangered fragrances
already reformulated 2 or 3 times for other reasons.
Bandit - Robert Piguet. The mossy base of this masterpiece where
Les Parfums - new exhibition in
Paris
IBQ is surrounded by a beautiful jasmine note is subject to oakmoss
Osmoz launches a fragrance KIT
death sentence.
Death of Perfumery
Ysatis - Givenchy - tree moss problem
Chanel pour Monsieur - (the classic, not the concentré version) too
chypre for IFRA
Eau Sauvage (Christian Dior) - the original Roudnitska's perfume is too
► March (24)
► February (49)
► January (26)
chypre (Miss Dior is already dead like several other classic Dior).
► 2008 (293)
Youth Dew (Estée Lauder) - the amount of spicy notes plus the
► 2007 (147)
oakmoss are problematic inside this great creation. In a similar situation
► 2006 (21)
is Opium (YSL). Opium for Men has already been changed because of
► 2005 (23)
the spices.
Bruxelles has succeeded to put an end to the classic French perfumery
and to XXth century great creations. It is also an end to the perfume
extract! Some perfumes will exist only as an EDT (with altered formula)
but the noble form of a perfume with high amounts of absolutes (mostly
jasmine) is "too risky". The french jasmine absolute used to be a
national symbol for the high quality of parisian perfumery. France
has lost the battle many years ago because of the prices. Now IFRA
death sentence is not only about chypre perfumes (oakmoss) but also
about jasmine. A symbol of quality for several centuries arrived to the
end. A great and shameful defeat for France that was not able to protect
its heritage, nor to built a XXth perfumery museum in Paris.
To be continued with other endangered fragrances
blogroll
Photo - "Le Radeau de la Méduse", Gericault
Update: Read also Perfumery Restrictions on Perfumeshrine
07.04.2009
1000fragrances
Pagina 4 di 9
friday, april 03, 2009
Les Parfums - new exhibition in Paris
A new fragrance salon / exhibition will take place in Paris from 12 to 15
september (2009) at Espace Richelieu, 60, rue de Richelieu Paris 2ème.
It will be dedicated to exceptional fragrances and about 30 fragrances
houses will be present to this event described as "parfumerie artistique".
Les Parfums - l'Exposition Parisienne.
Information from press release:
followers
"Lieu de rencontres et d’échanges à la fois culturels et commerciaux, ce
salon de la parfumerie artistique est dédié aux acheteurs des magasins
les plus sélectifs. Aussi bien français qu’étrangers.Il sera également
ouvert au public le temps d’une journée. L’occasion dedécouvrir des
marques parfois inédites en France. Et d’initier adultes etenfants à
l’univers du parfum par le biais d’animations ludiques.
Samedi 12, lundi 14, mardi 15 septembre. Journées réservées aux
professionnels.
Dimanche 13 septembre. Journée ouverte au public. Avec animationset
ateliers. Et activités pour enfants. 10 € l’entrée.
Lundi 15 septembre. Matinée presse. Chaque marque présentera
sesnouveautés ou ses produits phares."
Follow and connect with your
friends!
Unfortunatelly this event is exactly in the same period with Pitti
Immagine - Fragranze N.7 (11-13 september 2009) Firenze.
Osmoz launches a fragrance KIT
"As of April 14, osMoz.com will have a collection of fragrance kits
available for sale via an on-line boutique created specifically for the
occasion. Conceived by experts in fragrance design, these kits contain
the most stunning natural ingredients as well as exclusive compositions.
Each kit contains 12 essences (7ml), paper test strips and an “olfactory
exploration notebook” filled with illustrated stories and anecdotes about
fragrances… In order to extend the experience on line, a new section
dedicated to this collection will open at the same time on osMoz.com. "
News from Osmoz site.
There will be several volumes like Volume I (Accords mythiques)
Volume II (Fleurs originelles), Volume III (Bois et Résines légendaires).
Each volume is priced at 59 EUR (info and pic via press release).
I love this idea and I hope to smell some special ingredients and
accords from Firmenich (their products and inspirational trend accords
07.04.2009
1000fragrances
Pagina 5 di 9
are very hard to get/smell, no surprise they are swiss and obsessed
with secrets).
Other good training kits (raw materials) are provided by Cinquieme
Sens.
Death of Perfumery
"Perfumery, a hundred-year-old art, has taken a long time dying, but on
January 1, 2010 it will be officially dead. On that date, amendment 43
by IFRA, the international fragrance association, will take effect, and all
perfumes on the market, old, young, fine fragrance or shampoo, must
follow its guidelines or be in breach of the law in the EU. Among the
many disasters that will befall fine fragrance, let me pick an emblematic
one: oakmoss. This material is essential to perfumery and especially to
the chypre category, including Mitsouko and hundreds of others. From
2010 it will be replaced by things which do not smell like oakmoss. "
Luca Turin on NZZFolio April.
I cannot add more! Last week I was reading "alarming" reports on
linalool (and its oxydated "version") a molecule present everywhere in
naturals. Why shouldn't we forbid fragrances as alcohol was
prohibited after WWI?
Because of the final decision on oakmoss, I can only say ... if you leave
in EU buy all your beloved fragrances (modern!!!) that contain this
product.
Brands should inform the consumer on this matter. If you can't
fight EU you can at least have some stock of your beloved perfume still
on the market.
Youth Dew (another perfume with oakmoss) will be mutilated in Europe.
Miss Dior, already mutilated, will become a drugstore ghost and Opium
will decline in sales in the next 3 years. Forget any classic Roudnitska
and classic Hermès. Chanel pour Monsieur will be EU poison and Chanel
No5 extrait will become another ghost.
Fragrances should be produced outside EU and bought outside by
devoted consumers. Don't we already travel very much?
tuesday, march 31, 2009
Au fond de la mer
Avec la fluidité retrouvée dans les dernières créations, opposée à l'idée
du parfum "raréfié" (l'air sépare, l'eau est un liant) la parfumerie
retrouve un symbole très ancien. La mer qui coagula l'essence de la vie
et donna la métaphore de la beauté - Vénus /Aphrodite. Le tableau de
Botticelli qui dépeint la naissance de la déesse nous plonge dans un
07.04.2009
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Pagina 6 di 9
univers richement décoré par des allusions olfactives. Les fleurs et leur
déesse la nymphe Chloris, le Zéphyr qui ramène de loin les embruns
salés, la coquille, Heure la déesse du printemps, la mer, des arbres, un
roseau et finalement l'odeur de la femme dans une atmosphère calme
d'eau et écume.
Le premier parfum à s'inspirer de l'univers de la mer a été
probablement Antinéa de Rosine (Paul Poiret) mais ce n'est que vers les
années 60 que la note marine entre dans la parfumerie. On a tout
d'abord des recherches menées par Roure sur l'odeur des algues, puis
des absolues algues, fucus, embruns marins. Des produits naturels et
des bases. Des notes comme l'Aldéhyde Mer, Hélional, Calone ou Lilial
et aldéhyde Cyclamen commencent à être utilisées d'une manière très
timide. La fraîcheur marine et la brise salée on les associaient tout
d'abord à des structures lilas, jacinthe (avec les nouveaux acétales) et
muguet.
La représentation de la note marine a connu une longue gestation car
les différentes époques ont perçu la mer avec une grande diversité. La
teinture d'ambre gris et puis les molécules isolées de l'ambre ont
suggéré le long voyage à travers les vagues (l'ambre ne serait elle la
sueur de la déesse? l'odeur des cheveux dorés captive dans les bulles
de l'écume?) . Eau de Merveilles est plutôt un ambré et moins un
oriental - un élixir de mer profonde. La teinture de mousse de chêne et
les algues ont été le motif suivant de cette représentation dans laquelle
l'odeur iodée devint le symbole marin. Après on a commencé à regarder
autour de la mer. Les herbes séchées, le thym et le sel, la brise salée, le
sel cristalisé sur le rochers. On est dans les dunes et dans la mer tendre
qui devient un air balsamique et végétal. La mer embaume! C'est un
peu Dune (Dior) mais aussi les autres parfums qui mêlent l'esprit
oriental non sucré et la note aromatique - laurier, thym, sauge. C'est
aussi la représentation du sel à travers des notes vétiver ou herbacées
comme celle de Miller Harris. Dans les années 90 la mer est devenue
eau, eau salée et Calone à profusion. La mer était l'huître, la coquille de
Vénus qui devient masculine pour Kenzo. La coquille renferme le Male.
La secretion du principe feminin qui jadis donna naissance à la perle,
devient principe masculin et secrétion magnifique. La mer est absorbée
par l'homme puis mise en liberté. Calone, Azurone et les autres
composés analogues sont venus à représenter la mer. Une décennie
d'inondation et de clarté. Par souci de précision, des scientifiques de
Quest ou Givaudan ont commencé à explorer les odeurs vraies de la
mer, de l'océan et même des plantes en profondeurs. Le GC! On en tira
certaines bases utilisées parfois dans des créations moins créatives. Puis
Givaudan créa le Bloom représentation imaginaires d'une fleur des
profondeurs, à la fois ozonique, marine et minérale. La mer revient
après une marée fruitée mais la nouvelle vague est moins marine. C'est
une note froide des profondeurs qui pétille les herbes et les épices tel
Burberry Beat for Men ou Pucci l'aquatique.
Pourtant la naissance de Vénus de Botticelli est encore loin d'être
achevée. On a peint les détails au cours de l'histoire tel un herbier de
sensations olfactives. La mer de l'Embarquement pour Cythère, la mer
exotique et imaginaire des fleurs rares macérées dans le rhum, la mer
tourmentée sous le Radeau de Méduse ou même la mer entre Scylla et
Charybde. La mer est un concept bien plus profond que le simple usage
de la Calone.
Des molécules à connotation marine ou aqueuse: Aphermate (IFF),
Aquanal (Quest), Azuril (IFF), Cyclemone A (IFF), Empetal (Quest),
Floralozone (IFF), Frescile (Quest), Geraldehyde (IFF), Lemonile
(Givaudan), Melonal (Givaudan), Nerol, Ocymene Epoxyde, Ozonil,
Scentenal (Firmenich), etc.
07.04.2009
1000fragrances
Pagina 7 di 9
Cosmetics Database
I came across this website and I was shocked how safety is used for
other purposes than safety. When paranoia is combined with incomplete
or misused information or ... the lack of any scientific background it's an
atomic bomb!
If you have no scientific background you might be worried reading the
fragrance section of the website and the scores given to several
products. From low hazard (0) to high risk (10). But very soon I noticed
that it's not about information and safety but about manipulation.
One example:
The product "HEALING-SCENTS LEMONGRASS-TANGERINE BODY MIST"
is given 0 - low hazard.
But with if you read the list of ingredients of this non european product
you can see: tangerine oil, lemon grass oil, clovebud oil, nutmeg oil.
If your concern is safety as this association pretends... it's rather
strange that this concoction of citral, eugenol, isoeugenol, methyl
eugenol, limonene, linalool .... is O hazard when other products, labelled
according to UE legislation are considered 10 - high hazard. It is the
case of Acqua Allegoria Orange Magnifica, a product similar, at least at
the level of allergens and other so called safety problems (citrus and
spicy).
Other examples like this, based only on the information given on the
website, shows how un reliable the scores are, at least for the
fragrances.
The safety of the consumer is not allways the final goal... sometime
c'est juste un prétexte.
As a consumer, if my real concern was the safety of my products, I
would have chosen the Lemongrass - Tangerine body mist in stead of
Acqua Allegoria. But in the end.... I'm not safe at all. Au contraire!
From Lauder to Bulgari
Two major launches for two major fragrance brands ... but one single
accord.
Sensuous (Estée Lauder) and Jasmin Noir (Bulgari). Both are complex
and good perfumes. Sensuous is not one fragrance but at least 3 in one
and the evolution of the blotter 4 days after is interesting to show the
complex and operatic composition. But the blotter after 4 days shows
something else. What is the evaporation end in Sensous became
magnified in Jasmin Noir as if Bulgari was a part of Sensous. And that
idea can also be seen as an accord extracted from that heavy perfume
called Black Orchid. Heavy on ambroxan, lactones and many other
strong molecules.
monday, march 30, 2009
Thoughts on new perfumes
Last week I was traveling across Europe and this was a good occasion to
discover and sample several new fragrances available on airports.
Infusion Fleur d'Oranger (Prada) Very neroli-petitgrain perfume,
different from the cologne type (still with a strong linalil acetate effect)
and with a vintage feeling. In fact it smells like a very light and
contemporary l'Heure Bleue version with a delicate sweet peahoneysuckle note à l'ancienne. It has a light orris note, but not regular
orris and more Infusion d'Iris accord. It also uses jasmine sambac (a lot
of methyl anthranilate). Not so close to the Prada Orange Flower, from
07.04.2009
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Pagina 8 di 9
their exclusive line.
Brasil Dream (Estée Lauder) a original concept not very fruity (small
papaya-guava, but really small) and top but more woody-ambery-airy
floral based on patchouli. It has a modern rose note (Aromatics effect),
a curious camphor like note on top and chamomile. It is a dry wood
combined with a white sensual flower (gardenia and transparent
jasmine), reminiscent of Donna Karan Gold, with a lovely apricot
lactonic note on the drydown.
Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo pour femme - Very delicate and strange
perfume, floral heliotropine, light and sensual with a very soft orange
flower note, violet and just a hint of cologne fruity accord and a light
KenzoAmour note. The orange flower is "obtained" through several oils
that already contain a great percentage of methyl anthranilate & co
notes. The drydown is soft, ambery, sandal wood milky and musky. The
drydown is a very well known accord of 4 molecules. Official notes:
bergamot, mandarine, jasmin sambac absolute, orange flower absolute,
ylang-ylang, tonka, amber. There is also a Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo
pour homme, very contrasted (sparkling and sensual) with ginger,
lemon, coriander, elemi, vetiver, cedar, amber - labdanum and sweet tonka.
Lacoste pour Femme Collection Voyage - copy of J'adore, but rosy
and green
DKNY Be Delicious Fresh Blossom - a floral green version of the
perfume, less complicated, with an Escape like effect (rose oxyde note)
and bitter fruity on top (grape fruit).
saturday, march 28, 2009
Jean Paul Gaultier wears ...
In a recent interview published in Le Figaro:
"J'ai toujours eu un faible pour le Vétiver de Carven, qui me paraît
plus facile et plus populaire que celui de Guerlain. En général, c'est en
sentant un parfum sur quelqu'un que j'ai envie de le porter. Comme
avec Giorgio Beverly Hills, que mettait Boy George, ou ce Tea Rose de
Perfumers Workshop que j'ai senti sur une femme et que j'ai adopté
sans complexe. Comme dans la mode, les notions de masculinité et de
féminité dans le parfum ne sont pas claires."
friday, march 27, 2009
Scentsory Design
From the new academic journal Fashion Practice ... an interesting
article about a different approach in fashion design.
"In this article, the known affective potential of the sense of smell is
discussed, by introducing “Aroma-Chology” as a tool that is worn as an
emotional support system to create a personal “scent bubble” around
the body, with the capacity to regulate mood, physiological and
psychological state, and improve self-confidence in social situations. The
clothing formulates a “healing platform” around the end user by creating
novel olfactory experiences in textiles that are not as passive as current
capsulated capsule systems."
"What makes this novel from existing fragrance delivery methods (such
as the traditional perfume bottle) is that it offers a revolutionary way to
get fragrance to the right place at the right time. It offers the end user
a “mood fragrancing” experience depending on personal needs, by
automatically dispensing an atomized burst of fragrance, when triggered
from a switch, timer or external stimulus (i.e. biometric sensor for
07.04.2009
1000fragrances
Pagina 9 di 9
emotional stress response). Just as people store different genres of
music in their iPod, this method offers a new sensory system to collect
and store a selection of fragrances close to the body; a modern “iPod of
the Fragrance Industry” embedded in fashion."
Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion
Industry, Volume 1, Number 1, 2009
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