contents

CONTENTS
Introduction - The Historical Framework
1
PART ONE
THE DIETARY HISTORY OF JAPAN
Chapter 1
The Prehistoric Era
1.1
The Paleolithic Age
1.2 The Advent of Earthenware
1.3
Jomon Society and Dietary Culture
Chapter 2
7
7
9
12
Establishment of a Rice-Growing Society
17
2.1
A Crop Held in Special Regard
2.2 Dissemination and Development of Rice
2.3
Rice Cooking
2.4
Sake Brewing
2.5
Fermented Fish and Flavourings
Chapter 3
The Formative Period of Japanese
Dietary Culture
3.1
Historical Setting
3.2
The Taboo on Meat Eating
3.3 The Lack of Dairy Industry
3.4 Annual Observances and Rites of Passage
3.5
Place Settings and Table Settings
3.6
Cooking and Banquet Styles
3.7
The Role of the Monasteries
3.8 The Popularization of Noodles
17
21
27
32
35
45
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45
52
58
62
67
71
75
77
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
Historical Setting
City and Country
The Spread of Soy Sauce
The Emergence of the Restaurant
Snack Shops
Books on Cooking and Restaurants
The Ainu
The Ryukyu Islanders
Chapter 6
6.1
6.2
6.3
6.4
6.5
6.6
6.7
Changes in the Modern Age
Historical Setting
The Resumption of Meat Eating
Milk and Dairy Products
Entry of Foreign Foods
Zenith and Nadir
New Meal Patterns
Integration of Foreign Foods - A Model
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105
109
113
117
122
124
128
133
141
141
146
153
155
158
162
167
PART TWO
THE DIETARY CULTURE OF THE JAPANESE
Chapter 7
At the Table
175
7.1
Gohan - Framework of the Meal
7.2 The Rise of the Table
7.3
The Tabletop as Landscape
7.4
Chopsticks and Table Manners
7.5
Etiquette - As You Like It
Chapter 8 In the Kitchen
175
178
187
189
194
199
8.1
8.2
8.3
8.4
199
202
206
213
The Secularization of Fire and Water
From Wood Fire to Electric Rice Cooker
The Knife - A Sword for the Kitchen
Restaurants - The Public Kitchen
Chapter 9
On the Menu
219
9.1
Soup and Umami Flavouring
9.2
Sashimi - Cuisine That Isn't Cooked
9.3
Sushi - From Preserved Food to Fast Food
9.4
Sukiyaki and Nabemono
9.5
Tofu and Natto - Meat for Vegetarians
9.6
Vegetarian Temple Food
9.7
Tempura and Oil
9.8
Noodles and Regional Tastes
9.9
Pickled and Preserved Seafood
9.10 Mochi, Confectionery and Tea
9.11 The Dynamics of Sake and Tea
219
224
227
231
236
240
244
248
253
257
262
References
267
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