Sightseeing and events

PFY GB Guide 3 2006
28/05/06
Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau
25, rue des Pyramides — 75001 Paris
0 892 68 3000 (0.34€/min)
www.parisinfo.com
Publication Director
Paul Roll
Editorial Director
Catherine Kesting
Publication Manager
Sandrine Petit
Editor
Céline Jean-Louis
Editorial
Hervé Basset
Contributors to this guide: Dominique
Canivez, Sabrina Coppi-Rouchès,
Émilie Defoilhoux, Jean-Marc Grégoire,
Caroline Hilaire, Véronique Potelet,
Faly Razafin, Joyce Roux, Isabelle
Vignaud, Marie Yahiel and Raphaël
Bouveret (CRT Île-de-France)
English Translation
Julie Barnes, Deborah Lindsay,
CRT Île-de-France
Photos
PCVB: C. Balet, F. Charaffi, D. Lefranc,
A. Potignon, S. Querbes; Muséum
d’histoire naturelle; Musée de l’Air
et de l’Espace; Parfumerie Fragonard:
M. Bertrand; Musée Baccarat:
C. Weber; CRT Île-de-France;
MDLF/Château de Monte-Cristo;
Espace du Tourisme Disneyland Paris;
Maison Fournaise; Mairie de Paris:
A. Moreau, A. Clément, B. Ruggeri,
C. Thiebault, C. Boyer, C. Pignol,
D. Lefeuvre, E. Boucher, E. Lefeuvre,
F. Perrot, G. Bruneel, H. Garat,
J. Blachas, J.-M. Paz, Laurent, M. Verhille,
M. Lemonnier, R. Mesnildrey,
R. Casal, S. Krauss, S. Robichon,
T. Sanson, W. Ripka; Les Étoiles du Rex
Advertising: System Media
Design: Euro RSCG C&O
Production: Laurence Augereau
Photogravure: Alternative Numérique
Production follow-up: Euro Conseil Édition
Printed by: Casterman
Please note:
The PCVB may in no way be held
responsible for any possible errors
or omissions in this guidebook.
Some changes may occur during
the year and the PCVB remains
at your disposal for any additional
information or clarifications.
May 2006
12:42
Page 1
Welcome!
Just how you imagined it… Paris has
something for everyone in a multifaceted,
magical and mythical capital: sometimes
secret, always surprising.
We have designed and written this guide
to help you discover the many aspects
of the city, to accompany you as you visit
Paris, all of Paris, to suit your time here,
your interests or simply your spur of the
moment impulses.
In the sightseeing and events section,
in addition to the top sights, you will find
a year-round calendar of major events.
The twelve walks invite you to stroll
in each neighbourhood, guided
by their unique Parisian atmospheres.
The directory section lists useful addresses
and practical information so that you can
enjoy the French capital to the full.
We are delighted to share its riches with you.
So, here is Paris, for you.
Have a great stay!
28/05/06
12:42
Page 2
foreword
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
b y B e r t ra n d D e l a n o ë , M a y o r o f Pa r i s
Musée du Louvre
Bienvenue
Welcome
Bienvenido
Willkommen
Benvenuto
Paris is a majestic city, a city of culture,
romance, gastronomy, design and
fashion. It is also a city on the move, a
city of daring. With the opening of new
museums, world-class sporting events,
festive and popular urban happenings
like “Nuit Blanche” and “Paris-Plage”,
Paris is a capital that never sleeps.
Whether you are a newcomer or already
familiar with the Paris scene, there is
a vast choice awaiting you: over 1,800
classified monuments, 170 museums,
145 theatres and 380 cinemas. Some
of the cultural sites of the capital are
absolute “musts” and among the most
visited monuments in the world. Several
of them have Unesco world heritage
status.
www.louvre.fr
Paris, however, is not just a historical
city. Its riverbanks and neighbourhoods,
some of which retain a village
atmosphere, are an invitation to stroll
and sightsee. By day or by night, from
Belleville to the Marais, from the Butteaux-Cailles to Montmartre, soak up the
special ambience of these quartiers to
grasp the true “spirit” of the city and let
yourself be carried away by its energy
and vitality.
This new edition of the Paris guidebook
invites you to explore the capital as you
please. Discover the history of France,
check out the latest trends, enjoy the
parks and gardens or go on a shopping
spree… Just like the Parisians. And, take
your time.
Paris, the eternal, City of Lights, original,
modern and creative is all yours.
Whether you are already “in love” with
our city or here for the first time, please
make yourself at home.
Welcome to Paris!
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
28/05/06
12:42
sightseeing
and events
Page 4
Paris
pages 7 to 23
Île-de-France
Calendar of events,
top 12 Parisian sights,
and the River Seine
walks
pages 25 to 85
12 different atmospheres
to discover Paris
time after time,
area by area,
as the mood takes you
River
Seine
directory
pages 87 to 144
Some 200 useful addresses,
a metro map, information,
hints and advice –
all you need to enjoy
a smooth stay in Paris
Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (districts)
Scale
0
500 m
Paris for you
contents
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
28/05/06
12:51
Page 6
at a glance
and in a few
at a glance and in a few pages...
pages…
sightseeing
and events
calendar of events
A selection of major events
from April 2006 to March 2007.
q page 8
top 12 sights
Check out the main sights and make
new discoveries in each area.
q page 14
the River Seine
Journey across Paris along
the river – the birthplace of the city.
q page 18
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
8
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2006
12:51
April
Page 8
May June
0
exhibitions
Le Douanier Rousseau
Jungles
qThis self-taught artist is
considered to be a real
precursor of 20th-century art
➜ 15 March to 19 June
Galeries nationales
du Grand Palais (8th)
Reopening of the Musée
de l’Orangerie
➜ From 2 May
Musée de l’Orangerie (1st)
La force de l’art/
Grand Palais 2006
A new look at contemporary
art in France
qFifteen personalities
express their vision
➜ 9 May to 25 June
Galeries nationales du
Grand Palais (main nave) (8th)
Inauguration of the Musée
du Quai-Branly
qArt and civilisations from
Africa, Asia, Oceania
and the Americas
➜ From end June
Musée du Quai-Branly (7th)
festivities
Francofffonies !
qFrench-speaking festival
in France
➜ 16 March to 9 October
Paris and throughout France
www.francofffonies.fr
Reopening of the Aquarium
du Trocadéro
➜ April 2006
Trocadéro (16th)
Foire du Trône
qFunfair
➜ 1 April to 28 May
Pelouse de Reuilly (12th)
www.foiredutrone.com
Paris Jazz Festival
qThe best of Jazz
➜ 10 June to 30 July
Parc Floral de Paris (12th)
www.paris.fr
Fête de la musique*
➜ 21 June
Paris and throughout France
www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr
Lesbian, gay, bisexual and
transgender Pride Parade*
qLively musical parade
➜ 24 June
Through the streets of Paris
www.inter-lgbt.org
Paris Cinéma
qScreenings, ramble,
children’s festival, etc.
➜ 27 June to 11 July
Paris
Tel: 39 75
www.pariscinema.org
trade shows
Foire de Paris
➜ 28 April to 8 May
Paris-Expo,
Porte de Versailles (15th)
www.foiredeparis.fr
sport
Paris Marathon
q42.195 km race
through the city
➜ 9 April
www.parismarathon.com
Final UEFA Champions
League 2006
qFootball
➜ 17 May
Stade de France (93)
www.uefa.com
French Open tennis
championships
➜ 28 May to 11 June
Stade Roland-Garros (16th)
shows
Katia and Marielle Labèque,
piano
qBasle chamber orchestra
➜ 25 April
Cité de la Musique (19th)
www.cite-musique.fr
Maurice Béjart in Paris
qBest of Maurice Béjart
➜ 26 to 29 April
Palais des Sports (15th)
qBéjart Ballet Lausanne
(“Zarathoustra”)
➜ 3 to 6 May
Palais des Sports (15th)
qBallet de l’Opéra de Paris
(“Le Mandarin merveilleux”,
“Variations pour une porte
et un soupir” and “Boléro”)
➜ 19 June to 14 July
Opéra Bastille –
Opéra national de Paris (12th)
Hollywood en musique
qConservatoire de Paris
orchestra
➜ 23 May
Théâtre du Châtelet (1st)
www.chatelet-theatre.com
Eric Clapton
qRock icon
➜ 28 May
Palais Omnisports
de Paris-Bercy (12th)
www.bercy.fr
Rolling Stones
qVeteran rock band
➜ 3 June
Stade de France (93)
www.stadefrance.com
Robbie Williams
qPop star
➜ 17 June
Parc des Princes (16th)
www.rolandgarros.com
* Admission free
The events listed here by the Paris
Convention and Visitors Bureau
are subject to change without
notice by the organizers.
10
28/05/06
2006
exhibitions
Marilyn Monroe
qPhotos taken by Bert Stern
in 1962
➜ 5 July to 30 October
Musée Maillol – Fondation
Dina-Vierny (7th)
Cristobal Balenciaga
qThe work of fashion
designer Balenciaga
➜ 6 July to 28 January 2007
Musée de la Mode
et du Textile (1st)
Auguste Rodin –
Eugène Carrière
qComparison between
Carrière’s paintings and
Rodin’s sculpture
➜ 11 July to 1October
Musée d’Orsay (7th)
July
12:51
Page 10
August
September
14 July – Bastille Day*
qPopular dances on
the evening of 13th.
Military parade on
the Champs-Élysées
and firework display on 14th
Tel: 39 75
Fête des jardins de Paris
➜ 23 and 24 September
In Paris’s parks and gardens
Tel: 39 75
www.paris.fr
Mondial de l’automobile
qMotor show
➜ 30 September
to 15 October
Paris-Expo, Porte
de Versailles (15th)
Paris-Plage
(Paris Beach)*
Theme: French Polynesia
The Seine river banks
transformed: sand,
deckchairs, palm trees
and special events, etc.
➜ 20 July to 20 August
On the banks of the Seine
Tel: 39 75
www.paris.fr
Festival Paris, quartier d’été
qArtistic events throughout
Il était une fois Walt Disney
➜ 16 September 2006
to 16 January 2007
Galeries nationales
du Grand Palais (8th)
festivities
the city
➜ 14 July to 15 August
Tel: 01 44 94 98 00
www.quartierdete.com
Cinéma au clair de lune*
qEvening film screenings
Paris treasure hunt
➜ 1 July
Tel: 39 75
out and about in Paris
➜ August
Tel: 01 44 76 63 00
www.paris.fr
www.forumdesimages.fr
Open-air cinema festival*
Les Fêtes de nuit
Les Noces de l’enfant-roi
qA baroque and
contemporary show
➜ 26 August,
2, 8, 9, 15 and 16 September
Parc du Château
de Versailles (78)
qTheme: of creatures and men
➜ 4 July to 13 August
Parc de la Villette (19th)
www.villette.com
Solidays
qBenefit concerts for the fight
against HIV/AIDS
➜ 7 to 9 July
Hippodrome de
Longchamp (16th)
Tel: 0 892 68 36 22 (0.34€/min)
October
www.chateauversaillesspectacles.fr
Techno parade*
➜ 16 September
Through the streets of Paris
www.paris.fr
trade shows
www.technopol.net
European Days of
Heritage
➜ 3rd weekend in September
www.journeesdupatrimoine.
culture.fr
Hogarth
➜ 17 October
to 8 January 2007
Musée du Louvre (1st)
www.mondial-automobile.com
sport
Finish of the Tour de France*
qCycle race
➜ 23 July
Av. des Champs-Élysées (8th)
www.letour.fr
Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe –
Lucien Barrière
qHorse race
➜ 1 October
Hippodrome
de Longchamp (16th)
www.france-galop.com
shows
Groupe F
“Un peu de lumière...”
qJazz, contemporary music
and pyrotechnics
➜ 22 and 23 September
Parc de la Villette (19th)
www.villette.com
Ben Hur
“Beyond the legend”
qProduction by Robert
Hossein and Alain Decaux
➜ 22, 23, 29 and
30 September
Stade de France (93)
www.stadefrance.com
events
www.solidays.com
exhibitions
Rembrandt, etchings
qThe art of engraving by
Rembrandt
➜ October to January 2007
Petit Palais – Musée
des Beaux-Arts de la Ville
de Paris (8th)
Johnny Hallyday
qFrench rock star
➜ 29 September
to 1 October
Palais Omnisports
de Paris-Bercy (12th)
www.johnnyhallyday.com
November
December
trade shows
FIAC
qContemporary art fair
➜ 26 to 30 October
Grand Palais (8th) and
cour carrée du Louvre (1st)
www.fiacparis.com
Créations et savoir-faire
qCrafts and hobbies
➜ 23 to 27 November
Paris-Expo,
Porte de Versailles (15th)
www.creations-savoir-faire.com
Maurice Denis
➜ 31 October
to 21 January 2007
Musée d’Orsay (7th)
Orangerie 1934:
les Peintres de la réalité
➜ 22 November
to 5 March 2007
Musée de l’Orangerie (1st)
festivities
Paris Horse Show
➜ 2 to 10 December
Paris-Expo,
Porte de Versailles (15th)
www.salon-cheval.com
Paris International
Boat Show
➜ 2 to 11 December
Paris-Expo,
Porte de Versailles (15th)
www.salonnautiqueparis.com
Nuit Blanche
(Sleepless Night)*
An artistic trail through
the night in unusual and
prestigious places in Paris
➜ 7October
Tel: 39 75
www.paris.fr
Mois de la Photo
➜ November
Paris
Tel: 01 44 78 75 00
www.mep-fr.org
2006
Patrick Bruel
qFrench singer
➜ 17 to 19 October
Zénith (19th)
www.le-zenith.com
Johnny Hallyday
qFrench rock star
➜ 9 to 11 November
Zénith (19th)
➜ 5 to 9 December
Olympia (9th)
➜ 12 to 17 December
La Cigale (18th)
www.johnnyhallyday.com
Aida
Monumental Opera
➜ 21 and 22 November
Palais Omnisports
de Paris-Bercy (12th)
www.bercy.fr
Recital Dame Felicity Lott,
soprano
➜ 12 December
Théâtre du Châtelet (1st)
www.chatelet-theatre.com
sport
NBA Europe Live
(San Antonio Spurs/
Maccabi Tel Aviv)
qBasketball
➜ 8 October
Palais Omnisports
de Paris-Bercy (12th)
www.nba.com/france
shows
Mozart l’Égyptien
qMusical show
➜ 11 to 14 October
Zénith (19th)
www.le-zenith.com
The events listed here by the Paris
Convention and Visitors Bureau
are subject to change without
notice by the organizers.
* Admission free
11
EVENTS
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
12
28/05/06
2007
exhibitions
Ivan Aïvazovsky (1817-1900)
➜ 1 January to 30 June 2007
Musée de la Marine (16th)
Praxitele
➜ March to June 2007
Musée du Louvre (1st)
The Forest of Fontainebleau
– A life-sized studio
qWork by major artists,
from Corot to Picasso
➜ 6 March to 13 May 2007
Musée d’Orsay (7th)
festivities
Chinese New Year
qThe Year of the Pig
➜ 18 February 2007
Paris
12:52
January
Page 12
February
March
trade shows
International
Agricultural Show
➜ 24 February
to 4 March 2007
Paris-Expo,
Porte de Versailles (15th)
www.salon-agriculture.com
Salon du Livre
qBook fair
➜ 16 to 21 March 2007
Paris-Expo,
Porte de Versailles (15th)
www.salondulivreparis.com
sport
6 Nations tournament
qRugby
➜ February and March 2007
Stade de France (93)
www.stadefrance.com
Paris,
Capitale de la Création
Each year, 17 trade shows
dedicated to fashion and
home prove that Paris is
indeed the design capital.
The “creativity trail”
introduces artists, stylists,
interior decorators and
photographers
representative of Parisian
creation in all its forms.
shows
American Ballet Theatre
➜ 6 to 11 February 2007
Théâtre du Châtelet (1st)
www.chatelet-theatre.com
www.pariscapitaledela
creation.com
all year
Concerts
Concerts abound in Paris
all year round. Free or
bookable in advance, in the
open air or in theatres and
other venues: all kinds of
music, for all tastes
See directory pp.116 and 118
Père Lachaise (20th)*
➜ 29, 30 April and 1 May
2 and 3 December
Tel: 01 43 71 33 72
Ateliers de
Belleville (19th)*
➜ 12 to 15 May
Tel: 01 46 36 44 09
www.ateliers-artistesbelleville.org
Ateliers de
Ménilmontant (20th)*
➜ 20 to 23 October
Tel: 01 46 36 47 17
atmenil.free.fr
Anvers aux
Abbesses (18th and 9th)*
➜ 17 and 19 November
Tel: 01 42 54 64 56
www.anvers-auxabbesses.com
Tours
* Admission free
L A
C A R T E
Use your Paris à la carte Pass, valid for 2 or 3 consecutive days, and take
the bus and the boat as you please. The 58 stops mean that you can plan
your routes as you wish. And enjoy the exceptional views of the monuments
of Paris and the Seine from the rear terraces of the boats and the top decks
of the buses.
A different way to see the
city, when, for a few days
each year, artists and
artisans open up their
studios to the public
www.les-frigos.com
The events listed here by the Paris
Convention and Visitors Bureau
are subject to change without
notice by the organizers.
A
Artists’ open days
Ateliers des Frigos (13th)*
➜ 13 and 14 May
➜ January and September
Paris-Expo, Porte
de Versailles (15th) and
Paris-Nord Villepinte (95)
P A R I S
Every week, cycling
and rollerblading tours
are organized in different
areas of the capital
See directory p.131
+
PARIS A LA CARTE PLUS
"Paris à la carte PLUS" offers you, in addition to the 2-day pass on boats and
buses: 1 airport-city centre transfer with the Air France coaches, on one of the
3 scheduled routes. Air France coaches run 7 days a week. They are fast,
comfortable, airconditioned and fitted with video and GPS systems to optimize
your journey. Baggage handlers will take care of your baggage at the airport
and at the 7 stops in Paris.
Where to buy
your ticket?
• Escales Batobus
in Paris
Musée d’Orsay:
Quai de Solférino
• La Boutique
de l’Open Tour
13, rue Auber
75009 Paris
• Cityrama
4, place des Pyramides
75001 Paris
Tour Eiffel:
Port de la Bourdonnais
Place du Tertre
75018 Paris
St Germain des Prés:
Quai Malaquais
In France
or abroad
Notre-Dame:
Quai de Montebello
• At your travel agent
Jardin des Plantes:
Quai St Bernard
Information
Hôtel de Ville:
Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville
13, rue Auber
75009 Paris FRANCE
• Office du Tourisme
et des Congrès de Paris Louvre: Quai du Louvre
25, rue des Pyramides
75001 Paris
• Syndicat d’Initiative
de Montmartre
Champs-Elysées:
Port des Champs-Elysées
33(0)1 42 66 56 56
14
28/05/06
eiffel tower
Eiffel Tower
This graceful metal
structure towering
above you is now
117 years old…
Once the undisputed
emblem of Paris, the Eiffel
Tower now symbolises
France across the world.
It has already had over
220 million visitors!
qThe three levels
of the tower offer ideal
vantage points for spotting
places of interest below:
the Champ-de-Mars,
the École Militaire
and the Hôtel des Invalides.
A short stroll away,
over the Iéna bridge,
are the Trocadéro gardens
and the Palais de Chaillot.
See directory p.106
12:52
Page 14
champs-élysées
Champs-Élysées
From the Arc de Triomphe
to place de la Concorde,
extends the most
beautiful avenue
in the world, a mecca
for business, luxury
goods and nightlife.
Below the “rond-point”,
the avenue becomes
a huge garden
with theatres, museums
and fine restaurants.
qThe sheer length
of the Champs-Elysées
makes it a walk in itself…
But if you can find the
energy, then the Eiffel
Tower is not too far away.
louvre
Louvre
The museum’s collections
rank amongst the finest
in the world, with more and
more visitors flocking to
admire the Venus de Milo,
the 4,500-year-old Seated
Scribe as well as the Mona
Lisa and Marriage at Cana
by Veronese. The Louvre
was the palace of the
monarchs of France for
almost eight centuries.
qThe Louvre is ideally
situated: a ten-minute
walk will take you to the
Madeleine or the Opera
and Les Halles districts.
And if you cross the
Carrousel bridge, you’ll
soon be on the way to
the Musée d’Orsay or
Saint-Germain-des-Prés…
See directory p.101
montmartre
Montmartre
The balcony of Paris,
and also one of the city’s
historic centres,
Montmartre is the perfect
spot for a bird’s-eye view
of the capital.
This is the celebrated
neighbourhood of the film
Amélie, and beyond the
Sacré-Cœur and place
du Tertre, tucked away
in the district’s tranquil
backstreets, you’ll come
across wine bars and
little-known museums.
qFrom the Butte (Hill),
as the Parisians say, you
can venture further afield
on foot, by bus or even
by little train – Pigalle,
Saint-Georges and
the Batignolles district
are close by.
latin quarter
Latin Quarter
This neighbourhood of
students and universities,
and also bookshops,
fashion boutiques and
world food restaurants,
sprang up around
the Sorbonne University,
founded in 1257.
qA stroll through
the Latin Quarter will take
you from medieval
monuments to picturesque
markets, and from
Roman amphitheatres
to magnificent churches…
The islands of Île de la Cité
and Île Saint-Louis are just
minutes away.
notre-dame
Notre-Dame
Before being the star
of a novel by Victor Hugo
and a musical that has
toured the world,
the cathedral had been
an integral part of the
history of the people
of Paris since the
13th century. Built on
the Île de la Cité, this
place of worship is a
wonderful architectural
achievement…
qA visit to Notre-Dame
is incorporated in a walk
that takes you from
one island on the Seine
to the other with a stop
in the Jardin des Plantes
and a trip through
the Latin Quarter.
See directory p.103
15
TOP SIGHTS
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
16
28/05/06
opéra
Palais Garnier –
Opéra national de Paris
The Palais Garnier,
an opulent monument
of bronze, marble, stone
and gold leaf, is one of
the most celebrated
venues for dance.
Hidden behind its
Napoleon-III architecture
is a sumptuous decor;
and backstage,
a fascinating flurry
of expert activity!
qA visit to the Opéra
is also a chance to stroll
along the adjacent Grands
Boulevards and enjoy the
brasserie terraces or hop
across to the Madeleine…
it’s straight on!
See directory p.104
12:52
Page 16
musée d’orsay
Musée d’Orsay
Formerly a railway station
for passengers travelling
to south-west France.
It is now a magnificent
museum devoted to art
from the 19th century
to the early 20th century.
This amazing edifice
of metal and glass
contains an important
collection of works
by the Impressionists,
among others.
qA visit to the museum
may be combined
with a relaxing stop in
the Luxembourg gardens
or at one of the lively
cafés in Saint-Germaindes-Prés.
See directory p.103
place des vosges
Place des Vosges
This lovely quadrangle
of four symmetrical
buildings, constructed
in the early 17th century,
enchanted and attracted
firstly the nobility
and then literary figures
who came to live here.
Today, it is the heart
of the Marais district.
qAround place
des Vosges, you can
admire some wonderful
mansion houses.
However, there
is nothing to stop you
heading in the direction
of the Hôtel-de-Ville,
Les Halles and the
Montorgueil district…
bastille
centre pompidou
Bastille
Symbol of the French
Revolution, the national
holiday on 14th July
commemorates the day on
which the people of Paris
stormed the Bastille
prison here, in 1789.
The maze of little streets
behind the square
containing the new Opera
house is teeming with
trendy places to go.
Centre Pompidou
This huge building is
revolutionary in itself…
It was commissioned
by the former French
president and houses
the National Museum of
Modern Art as well as an
impressive library and
numerous temporary
exhibitions.
qFrom the Bastille,
qThe centre’s colourful
you are in easy walking
distance of République
along the main boulevards.
Père-Lachaise cemetery
is not far off and, if you’re
in a party mood, rue
Oberkampf is the place
to finish off the evening!
bulk towers over
Les Halles on one side,
and the Marais
on the other.
See directory p.103
See directory p.94
parc de la villette
17
Parc de la Villette/
Cité des Sciences
et de l’Industrie
The park is dotted with
buildings – concert and
theatre auditoriums,
contemporary circus
marquees... The Grande
Halle at the entrance
to the complex hosts jazz
festivals and many other
events. On the other side
of the canal, the Cité
des Sciences alternates
permanent exhibitions
and exciting attractions…
TOP SIGHTS
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
qLa Villette park is a
world apart. In this both
urban and natural setting,
you’ll always find
something entertaining
or relaxing to do!
See directory p.96
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
28/05/06
12:52
Page 18
over the water
18
Les amants du Pont-Neuf
The River
Seine
All the places you will visit in Paris may be summed up
in this long journey through time and history. The Seine
is not just a river, it is the most beautiful pathway through
Paris, and from it can be seen the most surprising
and grandiose views of the French capital.
q Viewed from the Seine, the contrast between
the different districts is even more striking.
Travelling upriver from the Eiffel Tower, you see the entire
traditional and historic part of Paris pass by –
the Palais de Tokyo, Grand and Petit Palais, Assemblée
nationale, Tuileries, Louvre and Châtelet, Île de la Cité and
Île Saint-Louis... Then, beyond the Charles-de-Gaulle bridge,
everything changes, and modern Paris with
its less familiar architecture appears: the Ministry
of Finance, Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy with
its grassy slopes, and the huge towers of the National
Library. Here, the Seine comes into its own in the midst
of this futuristic architecture.
La passerelle des Arts
Paris’s first iron bridge was
designed to connect the
Institut de France to the Louvre,
which was then (the 1800s)
known as the Palais des Arts.
It was a footbridge and
initially had nine arches.
Today, this fine structure
is often the setting for
open-air exhibitions
and remains a timeless
and magical place.
The oldest, most famous,
most popular... and
undoubtedly the most
attractive of Paris’s bridges!
It would be impossible
to cite all the paintings
for which it has served
as a model and all the films
it has been a backdrop for.
And yet, this bridge which
inspires lovers the world
over has remained virtually
unchanged since it was
built. Its charm owes
a lot to the small
half-moon- shaped
overhangs that enable
romantic couples
to admire the Seine
– already a delight
for passers-by in
the 17th century!
qParis’s 36 bridges – all
beautifully illuminated –
are soon to be joined by the
37th, baptised the “Simonede-Beauvoir” footbridge, to
be inaugurated in July 2006
(see walk 9, p.70).
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28/05/06
12:52
Page 20
Board
at any of
8 stops in
central Paris
as and when
you please !
• Tour Eiffel
• Musée d’Orsay
• St-Germain-des-Prés
• Notre-Dame
• Jardin des Plantes
• Hôtel de Ville
• Louvre
• Champs-Élysées
by boat
afloat
There are many ways
to travel on the Seine
aboard the famous
sightseeing riverboats.
You can opt for the
comfort of a cruise liner,
choose a candlelit
dinner, or go for the
smaller boats with openair decks.
The important thing
is not to miss the
spectacular view.
An entire Arsenal...
Batobus is a transport
company that enables you
to travel across the city
on its shuttle-boat service
(every 20 mins). Simply wait
at any one of the eight stops,
at strategic points along
the river – Tour Eiffel, Musée
d’Orsay, Saint-Germain-desPrés, Notre-Dame, Jardin
des Plantes, Hôtel-de-Ville,
Louvre and Champs-Élysées.
You can take a boat trip
from the Arsenal canal basin
(Bastille) to the La Villette
canal basin aboard the
pataches – smaller than
the conventional riverboats.
On the Canal Saint-Martin,
navigation takes on a
different rhythm. You travel
at the pace of the locks
as passers-by wave to you
from leafy tree-lined banks...
For more information,
see directory pp.114
and 131
The most handsome yachts
are moored along the quays
of the Arsenal marina,
dug out of the moats of the
former Bastille. This tiny port
in the middle of the city
never fails to amaze.
Numerous freshwater sailors
live here all year round, just
a few minutes away from
place de la Bastille.
You can walk under the road
bridge to rejoin the banks of
the Seine, where you have
a splendid view of the river,
opposite the tip of the Île
Saint-Louis, or, you can stroll
the length of the marina
through the adjacent leafy
park.
qParis is the secondbusiest river port in Europe,
and the leading port for
tourist transport in the
world with over five million
river passengers.
qGoing with the flow
River-boat shuttle service
Open all year (except in January)
Information :
www.batobus.com
in Paris also means
the pleasure of a trip along
the Bassin de la Villette,
sliding steadily towards
the first locks on the Canal
Saint-Martin.
on the beach
Paris-Plage
A delight for both Parisians
and visitors, courtesy of the
Mayor of Paris: every
summer, around mid-July to
mid-August, the Right Bank
of the Seine takes on the
appearance of a seaside
resort. Over three kilometres
of river banks are closed to
traffic between quai des
Tuileries and quai Henri-IV,
only to be invaded by
thousands of pedestrians.
You can settle peacefully in a
deckchair in the shade of a
parasol, beneath the palm
trees, or have a go at your
favourite sport: golf,
climbing or beach-volley…
Others might choose to
attend one of the many
evening concerts.
An eclectic range of free
activities and entertainment
which contributes to the
resounding success of this
summer initiative.
In 2006, Paris-Plage adopts
the colours of French
Polynesia for an exotic
change of scenery!
21
THE SEINE
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
22
28/05/06
on foot, by bike
12:53
Page 22
on the quayside
fresh air
tours
hotels
events
Sunny shores
Paris breathes
As part of the “Paris respire!”
operation, set up by the
Paris City Council, the Seine
expressways are closed
to traffic on Sundays
and public holidays, all year
round or from mid-March
to end December, depending
on the areas. In just a few
hours, bands of cheerful
cyclists, nonchalant strollers
and carefree skaters
take over the river banks...
Motor vehicles only have
to stop for a moment for
Parisians to repossess their
city. Experience this new way
of admiring the heart
of the capital down
by the Seine. Hire a pair
of rollerblades, a bicycle,
or take a long walk.
Gaze at the panoramic view
of stone facades steeped
in history, as you make your
way along the quays.
Stroll carefree, under
bridges and footbridges.
Idly, watch the boats go by.
And let yourself be
transported by the
tranquillity and beauty
of it all: Paris for you!
Quai Saint-Bernard
is undoubtedly a favourite
place for sun-seekers.
A stone’s throw from the
Jardin des Plantes, you can
picnic, or just spend hours
reading amongst sculpture
by César and Zadkine on the
lawns of the Tino Rossi
garden. People used
to bathe in the river off this
quay. Today, it’s a beach and
an open-air museum!
You can also take fencing
and archery classes here and
follow the fitness circuits
set up by the City Council,
as on Sundays the river
banks are reserved
exclusively for pedestrians.
Square du Vert-Galant
Its name indicates an ideal
spot for romance.
This charming public garden
below the Pont-Neuf
is shaped like the bows
of a boat and forms the tip
of the Île de la Cité, offering
a magnificent view of
the Louvre. You can also
take a boat trip along
the Seine from here.
qThe banks of the Seine,
between the Austerlitz and
Alexandre-III bridges, have
World Heritage status.
balades
Riverside book merchants
Did you know that Paris
is the only city to have
open-air bookstalls?
The bouquinistes (secondhand booksellers), some of
the last remaining street
traders, date back to the
same time as the Pont-Neuf.
Some two hundred and fifty
of their green boxes still
brighten up the Tournelle,
Hôtel de Ville and Mégisserie
quaysides.
As soon as the fine weather
arrives they readily open up
to reveal their secrets –
antique books, engravings,
collections of discontinued
newspapers and illustrated
broadsheets from another
age...
www.parisinfo.com
hôtels
sorties
Fish in the Seine!
Has the time when
Hemingway came to do
a bit of fishing on the banks
of the Square du Vert-Galant
truly gone? Not necessarily –
aquatic fauna love Paris too.
The Seine is teeming with
roach, carp, bleak, pikeperch
and pike.
musées museums
tout Paris, toute l’info all Paris, all the info
Site accessible en français, anglais et allemand, décliné en italien, espagnol, portugais, néerlandais, russe,
coréen, chinois, japonais et arabe. Website available in French, English and German, with simplified
versions in Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, Russian, Korean, Chinese, Japanese and Arabic.
PFY GB Guide 3 2006
28/05/06
12:53
Page 24
area by area,
Paris is revealed.
choose
Depending on your mood and taste,
an atmosphere and enjoy Paris à la carte!
walks
Timeless Paris
walk 1
Artists’ Paris
walk 5
Undiscovered Paris
walk 9
Île de la Cité (4th)
Latin Quarter (5th)
Île Saint-Louis (4th)
Jardin des Plantes (5th)
q page 26
Musée d’Orsay (7th)
Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th)
Luxembourg (6th)
Montparnasse (14th)
q page 46
Viaduc des Arts (12th)
Place d’Italie (13th)
Bercy (12th), Tolbiac (13th)
Bois de Vincennes (12th)
q page 66
Hip Paris
Monumental Paris
People’s Paris
walk 2
walk 6
walk 10
Marais (4th)
Montorgueil (2nd)
Hôtel de Ville (4th)
Les Halles (1st)
q page 30
Eiffel Tower (7th)
Champ-de-Mars (15th)
Invalides (7th)
Trocadéro (16th)
q page 52
Canal Saint-Martin (10th)
La Villette (19th)
Buttes-Chaumont (19th)
Belleville (20th)
q page 72
Glamorous Paris
Chic Paris
Party-time Paris
walk 3
walk 7
walk 11
Palais-Royal (1st)
Madeleine (8th)
Opéra (9th)
Grands Boulevards (9th)
q page 36
Auteuil (16th)
Bois de Boulogne (16th)
Porte Maillot (16th)
Passy, La Muette (16th)
q page 56
République (10th)
Bastille (11th)
Oberkampf (11th)
Père-Lachaise (20th)
q page 76
Village Paris
Mythical Paris
Sightseeing
in Île-de-France
walk 4
Montmartre (18th)
Pigalle (9th)
Saint-Georges (9th)
Trinité (9th), Batignolles (17th)
q page 40
walk 8
Concorde (8th)
Champs-Élysées (8th)
Tuileries (1st)
Louvre (1st)
q page 60
walk 12
Contemporary art
Painters
Gardens and châteaux
With family or friends
q page 80